Bamboo Room Takeover at Trader Vic’s Emeryville

The Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s recently opened in the Esmé Hotel in Miami, positioned as a drinks-focused tropical lounge featuring original cocktails and some Trader Vic’s classics. This concept is one of Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group’s venue concepts and isn’t a tiki bar but leans towards a cozy chill nightclub vibe, often featuring jazzy live music or DJs.

On Friday, Trader Vic’s brought a little bit of Miami beach to Emeryville by setting up the Lanyu Island room as the Bamboo Room featuring mood lighting and a special cocktail and food menu. Wait service was provided and the chairs and decor were drawn from items formerly in the Trader Vic’s London location.

The four cocktails were drawn from the Bamboo Room’s original cocktails and all were very good with Date in Dubai and The Park Lane being the best overall.

  • El Polinesio with Brugal 1888 rum, Vic’s grog mix, mint syrup, and lime is served in a fab flamingo class and has fruity notes.
  • Date in Dubai with date-infused bourbon and pistachio orgeat was a delight, a rich mouthfeel thanks to aquafaba and the blend of nuttiness and fruitiness was perfect.
  • The Park Lane with Tea-charged Tanqueray, amaro, coconut, passion fruit, white chocolate leaned the closest to traditional Trader Vic’s cocktails, but the light touch of coconut and rich flavors were truly outstanding.
  • Hinky Dinks is a clarified Mai Tai with Zacapa 23, lime, orange curacao, and orgeat. We spoke with some folks who didn’t really care for this but I found that this was a good midpoint between a traditional Mai Tai and the overly silky mouthfeel of many clarified cocktails. But having a more flavorful rum than Zacapa would definitely improve this.
Hinky Dinks

We didn’t try the food options as we had dinner in the restaurant. The Bamboo Room drinks could only be ordered in the lounge so I had to carry some back to our table. The chill music made the vibe in the room truly relaxing and provided a sense of what visitors can expect in Miami.

Trader Vic’s Mai Tai with Lemon Hart 151 Float

One of the most popular Mai Tai riffs of the past decade is the San Francisco Mai Tai, a standard Trader Vic’s Mai Tai with a 151 float. This was inspired by the story that Martin Cate tells in the Smuggler’s Cove book about an elderly man who would ask for a 151 float back when Cate was bartending at the now-shuttered Trader Vic’s in San Francisco. This became known as the “Old Way” Mai Tai because the gentleman was, you know, old.

Never mind that Trader Vic’s in Emeryville used the “Old Way” term to refer to a Mai Tai made with original ingredients and not the Mai Tai concentrate that replaces the sweeteners. But that’s a different story for a different day.

The graphic used on some Trader Vic’s menus for this cocktail clearly shows Lemon Hart 151 being used, though these days you’re much more likely to get a combination of Trader Vic’s 151 rum and Trader Vic’s Dark Rum, both distilled in Puerto Rico and lacking the heavy flavors that Lemon Hart is famous for. I think that this version is a nice upgrade, and you get a lot more booze for an extra dollar, though the Emeryville location dropped this item when they redid the cocktail menu this spring.

It wasn’t busy when I rolled into the bar at Trader Vic’s Emeryville on a Sunday afternoon while Mrs. Mai Tai was at the nearby bead show, so I asked for a Mai Tai with Lemon Hart 151 as a float just to see if the old man knew his cocktails. Expertly prepared, indeed this is an elevated version and those classic smoky flavors really do add something to the cocktail and gives you something to kind of chew on while relaxing with your beverage.

Just like the old timer wanted it. Mai Tai – Roa Ae.

Ultimate Queen’s Park Swizzle?

I’d be meaning to make this and it was featured on this weekend’s video from Derek on Make & Drink on YouTube. Derek highlights the difference between Trader Vic’s original 1946 recipe from his Book of Food & Drink with the commonly seen modern Queen’s Park Swizzle using colorless rums and a gigantic float of Ango on top. That style looks great on menus and social media, but leans closer to Mojito territory and doesn’t hold up to the Ango as well. And let’s remember Trader Vic’s noteworthy description of this cocktail, “Queen’s Park Swizzle is the most delightful form anesthesia given out today.”

So, I went with the classic Trader Vic’s recipe that originally called for a Demerara rum. I’m actually out of 86 proof Demerara rum, so I used the Hamilton Florida Rum Society blend that’s 60% Demerara and 40% Jamaican rum, and I compared it to my boozy Jamaican-forward Ultimate Mai Rum blend to see which I preferred.

Queen’s Park Swizzle by Trader Vic
Half of a Large Lime
Mint Leaves
3 oz 86 proof Demerara Rum (Lemon Hart or Hudson’s Bay)
2 dash Angostura Bitters
½ oz Simple Syrup
Squeeze lime wedges and drop shells with mint leaves at bottom of 14 oz glass. Fill glass with shaved ice, add most of ingredients and swizzle until glass frosts. Garnish with sprig of mint.

Comparing the two drinks, the Florida Rum Society rum provided some of the classic Demerara rum smoky notes and overall worked better in this cocktail. The Ultimate Mai Tai blend didn’t work as well because I went a little heavy on the Ango which seemed to overpowered the rum. You definitely want a bold rum in this style of drink.

Oakland Resolution Officially Designates the Mai Tai as the Official Cocktail of the City

History was made today, October 1st 2024, when Councilmember Rebecca Kaplan put forth a resolution to designate the Mai Tai as Oakland’s official city cocktail. The measure appeared to be non-controversial and passed unanimously, including two absent members, after two citizens spoke tangentially about the topic during public comment.

A memo from Kaplan stated the rationale by saying “Oakland is a thriving, diverse, and creative community that deserves recognition as the Birthplace of the Mai Tai. As the Oakland City Council Member At-large, I wish to honor its creation, and the history of innovation and hospitality in Oakland, and designate it the cocktail of the City of Oakland.” The ceremonial item passed through the Rules Committee on September 19.

Kaplan was involved with the 2009 effort led by Michael Thanos from Conga Lounge/Forbidden Island to officially designate the cocktail. That measure didn’t pass but Kaplan was able to declare August 30, 2009 as Mai Tai Day in the City of Oakland, a date that was subsequently picked up by Trader Vic’s and other tiki bars as a day to celebrate the cocktail.

The Mai Tai was created at the original Trader Vic’s location at 65th and San Pablo Ave in the summer of 1944. That location closed in 1972, replaced by the restaurant group’s current flagship location in Emeryville. Oakland currently has two tiki bars that pay homage to the city being the birthplace of the cocktail. The Kon-Tiki on 14th and Webster currently features a standard Mai Tai as well as a $44 version with rare Caribbean rum. The Kona Club on Piedmont Ave recently added a 1944 Mai Tai to their cocktail menu that also includes the venue’s long-standing Kona Mai Tai.

Trader Vic’s Royal Amber Rum Through the Years

Trader Vic’s Royal Amber Rum is the expression that Trader Vic’s uses in the Mai Tai and other cocktails at locations that use Trader Vic’s branded rums, distilled in Puerto Rico and distributed by Phillips Distilling. Royal Amber was introduced around 15 years ago in conjunction with World Spirits, ltd and stated to be a product of France. Royal Amber is supposed to be a combination of the Trader Vic’s Gold and Dark rums, which is to say that it is aged for a few years and does contain coloring and is issued at 40% ABV.

I’ve had this rum for some time and find it fights above its weight when used in a Mai Tai, even for a self-professed Jamaica rum snob like me.

I gladly was able to trade a modern sample for one from an older bottle from a local rum collector and found them to be pretty similar. The modern one struck me as a having a little bit more of a richer molasses taste, though that might be due to the age of the vintage sample. In either case it is a light-leaning rum with a pleasant flavor that plays well in a cocktail, very approachable for the average Mai Tai drinker at Trader Vic’s. We thank Gil for offering the opportunity to try this.

Pictured: vintage label, circa 2020 label, and modern label.

Rum Congress at SF Rum Fest

The education-oriented Rum Congress was added to the San Francisco Rum Festival this year, offering deep dives into everyone’s favorite spirit. Rum Fest is returning to SOMArts Cultural Center this year.

Most of the sessions were hosted by a rum brand, with flowing samples provided. Plus, Rums of Puerto Rico had a series of cocktails after each session that featured a variety of Puerto Rican rums. These ranged from simple spritzers to a delicious rum punch.

I presented a session with Rum Wonk Matt Pietrek called Rums of the Mai Tai – Secrets Revealed. This covered the evolution of rums in the Trader Vic’s Mai Tai, with deep dives on the original J. Wray & Nephew 17, the rums of the original Hawaiian Mai Tai, and the 1950s era Martinique rhum. We had a receptive audience that asked detailed follow-up questions, and the Rum Fest staff had a great visual setup for slides. Thanks to Sam for the photos.

Other sessions included Pietrek and Alexander Gabriele discussing some details of Navy Rum and the new Planteray Mister Fogg rum, then both signed copies of their new book on the subject. Gabriele also presented a session about the West Indies Rum Distillery in Barbados. Rum Champion Bryan Inman led a session about French rhum including reps and samples from Rhum Barbancourt. The last session was very loose but still enjoyable as Rum Lab’s Fede Hernandez led a session talking about Puerto Rican rums in tiki cocktails.

This was supposed to be my “dry” day at Rum Fest but it was anything but. It sounds like the team is interested in trying to make Rum Congress an ongoing component of the event. If this kind of event appeals to you, leave a comment with what kind of sessions you’d like to see in the future.

Happy 80th Birthday to the Mai Tai

Happy Mai Tai Day 2024! The Mai Tai was born in Oakland in 1944 and thanks to that city’s proclamation, we celebrate Mai Tai Day every August 30th. From humble beginnings and a few years in relative obscurity, the Mai Tai was Hawaii’s viral sensation in the 1950s. Starting in the 1960s, the Mai Tai evolved to incorporate pineapple juice.

You can learn more about the history of the Mai Tai with our long-form article. The essay covers the early years featuring long-aged Jamaica rums, the unusual rum blend in that original Hawaiian Mai Tai, a bit about the dark years, and the renaissance of cocktail that took place at the same time that premium rums became a market force.

The Mai Tai was created by Trader Vic Bergeron at the original Trader Vic’s, but we also highlight other notable figures in the Mai Tai’s significant contribution to cocktail culture including Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Martin Cate, and Michael Thanos. Plus the bartenders of the craft cocktail revolution who recognized that Vic’s original Mai Tai was a milestone cocktail that deserves to be on the menu at any quality tiki or craft cocktail bar.

So, Mai Tai Nation, today’s the day. Raise a glass as a salute to the Trader and anyone who celebrates the world’s best tropical cocktail. Cheers, friends, long live the Mai Tai.