The 1958 Havana Mai Tai was an interesting oddball of a recipe and has some interesting connections to the use of Martinique Rhum in combination with Jamaica Rum. We joined Derek on Make & Drink to discuss and taste this Mai Tai.
Trader Vic’s Tiki Tai Treasure Hunt Crawl
The second event of Trader Vic’s 90th Anniversary weekend started off with a reception for three-day passholders. We had a reception in the Captain’s Cabin room and were treated to a Mai Tai and a half ounce pour of Appleton 17 Legend Rum. Where Trader Vic’s found three bottles of this I’ll never know, but it was nice to try this fabulous rum once again. Some bites were also part of this reception.
For anyone willing to participate, Trader Vic’s provided a map of nearby tiki bars. You were encouraged to visit these bars and have a featured cocktail that payed homage to Trader Vic’s cocktails of the past. For those not on the three day pass that would start at Vic’s with a cocktail. For teams able to get through all eight locations, they could upload a photo of their stamped map to possibly win a prize.
The participating bars were Smuggler’s Cove, Pagan Idol, Zombie Village, and Last Rites in San Francisco, plus Alameda’s Forbidden Island, and Kon-Tiki and The Barbary in Oakland. These were good choices, though Last Rites tries to pretend they’re not a tiki bar, and The Barbary isn’t tiki either but at least the owners are former Vic’s bartenders.
We heard Smuggler’s Cove was opening early for passholders, so Lyfted over and entered the doors at 4:08 pm to find four empty seats at the bar, practically unheard of. I totally loved the Eastern Sour riff that used fresh lime and orange along with quality Jamaica rums. I also had the Cove’s legendary Mai Tai.
Our next stop was Zombie Village right at opening where we enjoyed the Kapua Swizzle and Mrs. Mai Tai’s favorite the Coco Pandan. After some socializing we headed over to Pagan Idol and loved their Fogcutter riff called the Apple Crank. I really dug this, and also had an excellent Jungle Bird. We took a break for dinner across the street at Cafe Tiramisu.
We were starting to run out of steam, and regretting not sharing more of the cocktails. We finished at The Barbary, a bar new to all of us that has a tropical and nautical vibe. We liked the decor, though it was really warm inside. But none of really enjoyed the cocktails, with the off-menu Mai Tai being pretty terrible.
A salute to the teams who completed all the stops. This was a fun event that once again demonstrated the respect and admiration the various tiki bars have for each other and how Trader Vic’s remains the beating heart of the genre.
Trader Vic’s Black Tai Event
The Trader Vic’s 90th Anniversary Celebration kicked off in elegant style with Friday’s Black “Tai” event in Emeryvile. This ticketed event was an all-inclusive experience including unlimited food and Trader Vic’s cocktails from various stations located throughout the venue. Plus DJs in some rooms and the Martini Kings playing in the main dining room. The staff did a great job with the setup and service throughout the night.
The event began with checking outside the restaurant and then a photo stop. We were led into the Cook room that was decorated with 1930s-40s artifacts from the original Hinky Dinks and then as it transformed into Trader Vic’s. We received a mini Mai Tai welcome cocktail and a Vic’s staff member walked us through the displays.
Next, we went to the Mai Tai Lounge which was set up to celebrate the 1950s-60s, with the Scorpion or a Mai Tai being the featured cocktails. The main dining room was set up for the 1970s, and the room next door highlighted Vic’s Middle Eastern locations with a boat full of the potent Tiki Puka Puka cocktails. The Trader’s Office featured spinoff restaurants Senor Pico and Mama Gruber with menus and artifacts, plus tequila tasting.
Finally, the Captain’s Cabin was set up for present day with a display and representatives from KōHana Hawaiian rum, plus a delicious Hawaiian cocktail with that rum and Campari. The tour aspect was more difficult as went through the restaurant and ran into other guests, but overall the displays and vast number of Trader Vic’s artifacts was astounding. A large Guest Book was available for people to sign in and wish Trader Vic’s a happy 90th year.
The night became somewhat of a blur, and in retrospect Mrs. Mai Tai and I should have split some of those drinks. Nonetheless it was great to be able to socialize and speak with so many people. Mrs. Mai Tai dressed up in a tropical duster and I wore a vintage shirt from the Hawaiian Village with my suit. So many people really dressed up, a nod to the old days when people wore suits and dresses at fancy Polynesian restaurants like Trader Vic’s.
Vintage Foods at Trader Vic’s Emeryville
We returned to Trader Vic’s Emeryville to sample some of the vintage menu items that have returned for the summer. We previously tried the cocktails and this time we tried some of the food items, with wildly mixed results.
I absolutely loved the Bar Cheese with crackers, heavy on Blue Cheese but also with Cream Cheese, spices, and a hint of Horseradish. I love a funky cheese spread and it totally worked for me, though Mrs. Mai Tai thought it was too heavy on the Blue Cheese. I also really enjoyed the delightful Chicken Nibbles which are similar to Cheese Bings but feature minced Chicken and Shrimp, Cheddar, Sherry, and spices. These are fried to a crisp and not so heavy on the cheese.
When we visited a couple days earlier our server talked about the menu and how she didn’t care for the Bongo Bongo Soup with Oysters and Spinach. This is a pretty well-known vintage menu item, and Mrs Mai Tai usually likes soups. But neither of us cared for this soup that had a strong “fishy” taste.
It is great to see Trader Vic’s bringing these classic items back for a short time, even if they’re not all outstanding. Worth checking out while you can.
New Issue of Exotica Moderne Features Article on History of the Mai Tai
We once again salute Ken Holewczynski for putting together another fabulous issue of Exotica Moderne magazine. Issue 24 features our article on the history of the Mai Tai complete with a great page layout that’s a pleasure to read in print.
Issues of Exotica Moderne 24 are still available for sale, but don’t delay as they won’t be forever.
The Shingle Stain Cocktail from Trader Vic’s
Trader Vic’s Emeryville has a special retro menu for the summer, including vintage cocktails and food from decades past. One cult classic is the Shingle Stain which is named due to its red color. Also notable is the paper drink topper first employed by Trader Vic’s in the 1960s (see menu from the Beverly Hills location below). I’m not a roofer by trade but I’m really not sure what to think of the illustration featuring a man with his behind hanging out and a woman on the other side who’s lost her bikini top. Times have changed.
Nevertheless, you can order this juicy cocktail today in Emeryville including the topper that you can take home as a souvenir. This was the second version of the cocktail, first published in Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide Revised and significantly different from the original published in Trader Vic’s Book of Food & Drink.
Shingle Stain (1946)
Half a Lime *
1 oz Dark Jamaica Rum (Red Heart or Myers’s)
½ oz St. James Rhum
¼ oz Pimento Dram
Dash of Pomegranate Syrup (Grenadine) *
Shake with cracked ice and pour over cracked ice in a 12 oz chimney glass
* Vic said that the juice of one lime is equivalent to one ounce and “dash” of this style of ingredient equaled a quarter ounce.
The Pimento Dram and Grenadine provide a tart taste but pleasant taste not unlike Cranberry, which likely led to the second version of the cocktail.
Shingle Stain (1972)
Juice of one Lime
2 dash Angostura Bitters
¼ oz Grenadine
1½ oz Cranberry Juice
½ oz Pineapple Juice
2 oz Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Rum
Shake with ice cubes and pour into a ten-pin pilsner glass. Decorate with fresh mint.
Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Rum was likely was a bold and pungent rum blend. Its use in the Shingle Stain tells me that you need that boldness to compete with all the juices and notably the strong flavors of Cranberry Juice. In Emeryville they use Trader Vic’s Royal Amber Rum. While I do like this rum in the Mai Tai it does get a little lost in the Shingle Stain with all the other ingredients. I’d recommend using an aged Jamaica rum for this cocktail.
Retro Cocktails at Trader Vic’s Emeryville
Had sort of an impromptu visit to Trader Vic’s Emeryville on Thursday night to sample some of the cocktails from their special vintage food and cocktail menu that’s been on special this summer. We’ll cover the Shingle Stain in a separate post, but we enjoyed trying two other vintage items: the Potwasher and the Bamboo Punch.
The Potwasher was the signature cocktail for the short-lived 1979 spin-off restaurant Mama Gruber’s Fishhouse, and after closing was on the Señor Pico menu. The description says this contains Dark Rum and Sloe Gin, Pineapple, Spiked with Grog Mix. I thought the mouthfeel and balance of this cocktail was pretty good, and you’re getting a lot of rich flavor from the Vic’s Grog Mix. I wasn’t able to find the recipe but we do have a photo of the original signature mug.
The Bamboo Punch dates back to at least the 1960s and also appeared in the Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide Revised. This didn’t really have a ton of depth to me, and needed a little more sugar to balance the tart and bitter elements.
Bamboo Punch (1972)
Juice of one Lime *
2 dash Peychaud’s Bitters
½ oz Passion Fruit Nectar
1 dash Trader Vic’s Rock Candy Syrup *
1 oz Trader Vic’s Puerto Rican Rum
1¼ oz Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Rum
* Vic said that the juice of one lime is equivalent to one ounce. Vic later said that “dash” of this style of ingredient equalled a quarter ounce.
At the time of publication, the Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Rum was a blend of 70% Jamaica rum, 20% Martinique, and 10% Virgin Island rum. It likely was a bold and pungent rum blend, designed for the Mai Tai. In Emeryville they’re using Trader Vic’s Royal Amber Rum. I’d recommend using an aged Jamaica rum for this cocktail to better balance against the light Puerto Rican rum.
The modern cocktails recently added to the cocktail menu at Vic’s address contemporary sensibilities for more assertive flavors, such as the smoked pineapple in Mrs. Mai Tai’s Lava Haze, and serve as a counterpart to these vintage drinks when customers liked things a little lighter.
