Book Review: Cuban Cocktails

I ordered Cuban Cocktails and while there are some nice things about it, there are some significant flaws. This 2016 book comes from the team behind the Death & Co. and the NYC Cuban bar Cienfuegos that closed a couple years ago. The book starts with a history of Cuba and cocktails from the country, including rum that is the key ingredient. Written in 2015 when the Obama administration eased travel restrictions, the book is a sad reminder of the subsequent travel restrictions that remain in place to do this day.

The book takes a chronological approach to the presentation of the recipes, starting the early punch recipes and then moving forward in time to daiquiris, tiki, and present day. While a number of historical recipes are included, there are also modern approaches to these style of cocktails.

The problem is that while many recipes name-check specific brands, none of those named brands are Cuban rum. Nor are there any suggestions for what kind of rums a US consumer should procure for these recipes. After pages of specific references to Appleton, Smith & Cross, Flor de Cana, and El Dorado the Daiquiri chapter only references “white rum” or “light rum.” This seems to be very curious omission, since Cuban rums aren’t available in the United States. And I doubt these craft cocktail bartenders are using the standard bearer for white rum, Bacardi Superior. The whole point of learning from professional bartenders is to learn what kind of ingredients they use so that the home bartender can elevate their game. There isn’t really any coverage of Cuban brands either, apart from photos that show the Havana Club logo on glassware and bottles.

Mai Tai with Appleton Hearts 25 Year-Old Rum

Per the previous post, I simply love the Appleton Hearts 1995 Jamaican Rum. I’m not afraid to put expensive rum in a Mai Tai when I think the results would be a luxurious treat (example: Hampden Great House). But I was a little reluctant for this bottle, less I “spoil” any of the rum in a cocktail when I could instead savor it while tasting it neat.

So, I split the difference and made a half-sized Mai Tai with Appleton Hearts 1995.

Part of it was to think that maybe I was getting close to the original J. Wray & Nephew 17 year-old Jamaican rum that was used by Trader Vic in the first Mai Tai. Since Appleton is part of the Wray & Nephew company, I figured this 100% pot still release aged 25 years would be similar to the original Wray 17.

So, can you notice this rum in a Mai Tai?

Yes. Yes you can.

Does it make an amazing Mai Tai?

Yes. Yes, it does.

There are few examples of showing how a rum can shine in a cocktail like this release. You taste the cocktail and initially it tastes similar to any Jamaican rum. But then the flavor hits you and it completely overwhelms your tongue with flavors. So much to taste, and it lingers forever.

That might be the only Mai Tai I ever make with this amazing rum, though. It is simply even better when sampled just by itself.

Appleton Hearts 1995

The Appleton Hearts collection is a limited edition release of some of Appleton’s longest aged pot still rums, brought to market in conjunction with Velier. These were announced in late 2020 but only this month came to California. The three releases include the 1994 expression, aged 26 years, and the 1999 that was aged for 21 years.

I ended up choosing the 1995 expression, which was priced between the other two and had gotten great reviews online. While I do love Appleton’s rum line, I do wish there was more pot still distillate in the blend since that would make that a better representative of the typical Jamaican rum style. So, to have a 100% pot still release, and have it released at cask strength rather than the typical 43% ABV, well, that is worth splurging on. Plus, it is aged for 25 years.

The incredibly rich and flavorful rum is a total flavor bomb, and most certainly indicates that Appleton’s pot stills are every bit as worthy as the stills from the distilleries elsewhere in Jamaica. Definitely funky, though not like the super funky rums of the island. The lingering flavor that coats your tongue and stays there long after you’ve swallowed is simply amazing. I’ve extolled the virtues of Mount Gay’s Pot Still release from a couple years ago, and it has a similar flavor. But that release is only 48%, so this Appleton release is that much stronger and coveted.

Simply put, this is my most treasured and favorite rum ever and completely worth the price paid considering the quality and limited number of bottles released.

There are most Appleton Hearts releases coming, so if you can afford it I’d certainly encourage you to try it.

Does it make a great Mai Tai? Yes, it does…

Diplomatico Pot Still Rum

Regular readers will know that Jamaican Rum is my favorite and that I prefer heavy, flavorful rums without sugar added. So, the “Spanish style” rums that are lighter and (from some countries/distilleries) have added sugar aren’t usually the ones I normally go for (though, I do have a sweet spot for Pampero Aniversario).

I was so pleased to try this release from Diplomatico that is based just on Pot Still distillate, one of the rums I’m trying from the Forbidden Island Kill Devil Club 2.0 list. I’ve never been impressed by Diplomatico’s releases up to this point and find the added sugar usually imparts flavors that I don’t think are palatable. But this Pot Still release is quite good. Still not as heavy as rums from Jamaica, but definitely hefty enough to savor and figuratively “chew on” for a while. Check it out.

Diplomatico Distillery Collection Pot Still Rum

Amazing Mai Tai at Trader Sam’s

The app-based reservation system I mentioned for Oga’s Cantina worked even better getting inside at Trader Sam’s Enchanted Tiki Bar last Wednesday afternoon. Once I got onto the Disneyland Hotel property I tapped on Sam’s and added myself to the waiting list. The app said the estimated wait was 30 minutes. But just seconds after receiving the first “you’re on the list” text message, I got another one that said my table was ready.

Inside, the bar was not busy so it was a perfect time to cool down inside with a cocktail. Skipper Nate was working behind the bar and I ordered a Mai Tai with Appleton Reserve rum. Nate checked the order, “classic style?” which I took to mean no Agave Syrup that they use in their standard house Mai Tai. “Yes, sir,” I said. That Appleton Reserve Mai Tai was faaantastic, and I was more than happy to compliment the Skipper when he asked how it was. Very rummy, but also a wonderful flavor profile – not too sweet, not too sour. Great mouthfeel.

Classic Mai Tai with Appleton 8 Reserve Rum

Second Round, Better than the First

For the second round, I asked Skipper Nate if they had something a little more funky, and he suggested Hamilton Pot Still Blonde rum. I said that would be great – a half Appleton Reserve and half Hamilton Blonde Mai Tai.

It was one of the best Mai Tais I’ve ever had.

The funkier rum really added a nice punch to the cocktail, and elevated what was already an amazing Mai Tai. On this day it was damn near perfect.

Nearly Perfect Mai Tai with Appleton Reserve and Hamilton Pot Still Blonde rums

Thank you Skipper Nate! I will follow you into battle anytime.

That day it really came together at Trader Sam’s: relaxing in the immersive space, exotica music playing, and the light hum of conversations and laughter.

Hi-Time Wine Cellars

I’m sure many of you already know about this gem of a wine and spirits store in Costa Mesa, CA but I thought I’d post this for those who aren’t already hip. Especially for SoCal folks, this place is an essential resource.

Their store was an easy drive for us the other day during a hot afternoon when we took a break from Disneyland. So much selection: I’ve never seen a store that carries so much rum! If you’re getting started with rum, this is a great place to start your journey.

Hi-Time also does shipping to many states from their online store. Shipping isn’t cheap for a single bottle but isn’t bad if you’re doing a bunch of bottles.

Hi-Time Wine Cellars