Juniper Tai Fail

As the Trader Vic’s restaurant and food services empire expanded during the 1950s and 1960s, there were several variants of the Mai Tai developed to appeal to different customers. All of these were simply a Mai Tai but with an adjustment to rum or spirit being used. The Menehune Juice was simply a Mai Tai made with light Puerto Rican rum and the Suffering Bastard was one made with three ounces of rum rather than two.

Vic also developed versions using different spirits, including the Pinky Gonzalez with tequila, Honi Honi with bourbon, and the Rusky Tai made with vodka (now designated as “Vodka Tai” on Trader Vic’s menus). Using the Mai Tai as a template, these are all still really great cocktails.

Notable in absentia is the lack of gin Mai Tai, especially since gin was featured in many of Vic’s cocktails. This seemed like a strange omission, so I decided to make one at home using Tanqueray Gin, nicely flavorful at 47% ABV. I was really interested to see how this worked.

It was terrible.

I guess ol’ Vic knew a thing or two about cocktails because for some reason this “Juniper Tai” was truly awful and almost undrinkable. The gin’s Juniper and botanical flavors did not pair well with orange curaçao and almond-forward orgeat. They can’t all be winners, I guess.

National Saturn Cocktail Day

Do we need another official/unofficial cocktail holiday? When it’s for the Saturn, the answer is yes!

The recognition is the brainchild of Derek from Make and Drink on YouTube, whose history of the Saturn video is incredible, insightful, and a full stop must see. Really, go watch it now.

This week Derek is following up with another video and promoting May 22 to be Saturn Day, in recognition of the day in 1967 when the cocktail’s creator J. “Popo” Galsini won the California Bartenders Guild competition and essentially introduced the Saturn to the world.

The Saturn is one of the last great cocktails from tiki’s golden area, using familiar ingredients such as orgeat, falernum, and passionfruit syrup and notably using gin as the base spirit. As Derek noted, Galsini was not a purist and said that using vodka or a light rum was perfectly reasonable. The cocktail was originally served to judges in an ungarnished coupe glass, and later to attendees in a whiskey sour glass with a cocktail cherry dropped into the bottom and garnished with an lemon wedge. Those fancy planet-style garnishes are a 21st century invention and are sort of incorrect because the cocktail was named after the Saturn rocket, not the planet.

Historically accurate Saturn cocktail garnish

Saturn
½ oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Passion Fruit Syrup
¼ oz Falernum
¼ oz Orgeat
1¼ oz Dry Gin
Shake with ice and strain. Garnish as you please.

The rich flavors from some of tiki’s stalwart syrups blend together in harmony, with subtle juniper notes from the gin. This is a gin cocktail that even gin-haters love, and I’ve served this to reluctant guests to great effect.

Cheers to Popo on his creation, and cheers to Derek for keeping the flame going for a new generation.

Tip Top Proper Cocktails: Bee’s Knees

Tip Top Proper Cocktails are one of my favorite ready to drink cocktail brands, and their Mai Tai is the best I’ve tried. The Bee’s Knees is pretty good, though I felt that the honey was too forward and had a honey flavor that reminds me of processed honey candy that I’m not a fan of.

My preparation involved refrigeration and direct pour into the coupe. I’d strongly recommend a quick shake with ice cubes to chill this down even more, plus adding a little bit of dilution that I think would have opened up the flavors a bit. Nonetheless, still a very good RTD option to keep in the fridge in the case of emergency or when traveling.

Liquid Alchemist Falernum Syrup

New from craft cocktail syrup company Liquid Alchemist is their new Falernum syrup. This syrup is a blend of almond, ginger, lime, and cloves and most certainly is way more assertive than any other Falernum I’ve tried. This is a rich syrup and adds a lot more oomph to cocktails, perhaps just on the edge of being too spicy. Nonetheless I really liked the ginger and clove notes in the Liquid Alchemist Falernum.

Falernum is an interesting category because there are liqueurs such as market leader John D. Taylor Falernum, but also non-alcoholic syrups like this one. I remember Jeff “Beachbum” Berry saying that the syrups are twice as flavorful as the liqueurs, so you can use half as much for the same amount of flavor. I agree with this idea, and I recently purchased Maggie’s Farm Falernum Liqueur and didn’t find it nearly as flavorful as syrup-based Falernums.

The bottle includes a recipe for a Saturn, a notable and popular cocktail that features Falernum. The recipe included increase the ratio of Gin and completely omits Orgeat. Compared to a Saturn made with Maggie’s Farm, I definitely preferred the one made with Liquid Alchemist.

Liquid Alchemist Saturn
2 oz Gin
½ oz Liquid Alchemist Falernum
½ oz Passion Fruit Syrup
½ oz Lime Juice

I found this Saturn to be lacking the body that the Orgeat provides in the cocktail, so while I do recommend Liquid Alchemist Falernum I would suggest sticking to the classic recipe where this Falernum plays well with the bold flavors of Passion Fruit Syrup.

I also tried this Falernum in a Planter’s Punch to good effect. When I tried Liquid Alchemist Falernum in a Corn ‘n Oil it was spicy enough that you wouldn’t need to add Angostura Bitters. A little goes a long way.

The sample was provided by Liquid Alchemist, but this is not a sponsored post.

We have a Beefeater Problem

I only started procuring gin to make certain exotic cocktails, such as the Saturn shown here. I picked up a bottle of Beefeater London Dry Gin and haven’t looked back. I like the flavors that it imparts and I like the bottle design. Even better was how it was issued at 47% ABV, a step up from many retail spirits, giving this spirit a lot more flavor than vodkas and light rums. I’ve tried other gins but found that I like Beefeater and while I have dozens of rums, I didn’t feel like I needed to do much exploring in the gin category.

A couple years back Beefeater dropped their ABV to 44%, which I didn’t bat too much of an eye at though I will say I did buy a couple bottles of the 47% version that I found at a local liquor store. All seemed to be okay.

But Beefeater recently dropped their proof again and is now a paltry 40% ABV! This is a bridge too far, though I did go back to that store to buy a couple more 47s they still had in stock. But I can’t recommend the brand per se anymore. I do see that brands like Tanqueray are still at 47%, which is where I guess I’d stand from a recommendation standpoint, even though I haven’t done a side by side comparison.

What do you think, dear reader? What are your recommended gins for mixing?

Recipe: Fog of Saturn

This is my take on a Fog Cutter, incorporating Passionfruit Syrup and an orange liqueur to replace some of the juice elements. Clearly influenced by another all-time gin classic, the Saturn.

Fog of Saturn
1 oz Lime Juice
⅔ oz Orgeat (Latitude 29)
¼ oz Passionfruit Syrup (Liber)
¼ oz Cointreau
1½ oz London Dry Gin (Beefeater)
2 dash Orange Bitters
Shake with ice and float 1½ oz Cream Sherry (Harvey’s Bristol Cream)

Some might object to the amount of sherry being used here, but to me I love the combination of the sherry with the tropical elements and the gin.

Samoan Fog Cutter Modified

I got this Tiki Tolteca mug at the Alameda Point Antiques Fair (thank you @smuggler_steve), so wanted to make a drink in it. I had a great time visiting Tiki Tolteca in New Orleans in 2018, now sadly shuttered.

The drink was a Samoan Fog Cutter, though I misread the ingredients and ended up switching the ratio of Lemon and Orange Juice. I also used a Cara Cara Orange, so this ended up quite a bit sweeter than it would have been otherwise and I think was a more balanced ratio. I also used a lot more Sherry than what the original recipe calls for and to me is better for it.

I thought this tasted great, and I did find that even the small amounts of Brandy and Gin were providing a more complex blend of noticeable flavors than if this just used light rum.

Samoan Fog Cutter Modified
2 oz Cara Cara Orange Juice
1 oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Orgeat (heavy pour)
½ oz Gin (Beefeater)
½ oz Brandy (Korbel)
1½ oz Light Rum (Trader Vic’s)
1 oz Sherry (Harvey’s Bristol Cream)
Shake ingredients with ice, saving the Sherry for a float.