New Book: P/Fassionola

Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient is a new book from Gregorio Pantoja and Martin S. Lindsay. This passion project is finally reaching Kickstarter backers and is also for sale. The book covers the history of Fassionola syrup, a cocktail ingredient that started as the brand-name Passionola and evolving into a generic ingredient that was issued in Gold, Red, and Green varieties. The syrup was passion fruit-based, but with additional fruit ingredients.

As with Lindsay’s book about San Diego Tiki, there are hundreds of gorgeous photos and historical details about the products, people, cocktails, and bars where they were served. Daniel ‘Doc’ Parks provided additional insight and several of his cocktail recipes are included along with other modern bartenders.

There’s a lot to like here, though the organization does not cohesively track the syrups evolution or plainly state the current state of Fassionola products. There isn’t a clear-cut definition of how Fassionola specifically differs from Passion Fruit Syrup, nor tasting notes about the colored varietals, and important details are buried in the descriptions of cocktails or venues. There’s a recipe for a Red Fassionola on page 252, but that’s not in the recipe index, and disappointingly there are no other Passionola or Fassionola recipes.

The following cheat sheet may help:

  • The book’s name is technically Fassionola but social media refers to it as P.Fassionola
  • Passionola was a brand name and is essentially similar to Fassionola
  • Gold Fassionola is closest to Passion Fruit Syrup
  • Red Fassionola has cherry or strawberry notes, Green has lime
  • Jonathan English is the recommended modern Fassionola, but you can only purchase via eBay
  • The authors have discovered a historical recipe for Passionola and are working to turn it into a retail product, coming soon

This last part potentially explains the lack of syrup recipes and I’ve heard from many folks that this seems like a ploy to generate interest in the retail product. Still, I am still looking forward to it. The book’s narrative structure is challenging but there’s a lot to learn if you are willing to dig a little.

Additional Notes:

Book review from Jim “Hurricane” Hayward, who wrote the the foreword for the book

What is Green Fassionola? And how to make the green Passionola Cooler from Make & Drink on YouTube

Rum Congress at SF Rum Fest

The education-oriented Rum Congress was added to the San Francisco Rum Festival this year, offering deep dives into everyone’s favorite spirit. Rum Fest is returning to SOMArts Cultural Center this year.

Most of the sessions were hosted by a rum brand, with flowing samples provided. Plus, Rums of Puerto Rico had a series of cocktails after each session that featured a variety of Puerto Rican rums. These ranged from simple spritzers to a delicious rum punch.

I presented a session with Rum Wonk Matt Pietrek called Rums of the Mai Tai – Secrets Revealed. This covered the evolution of rums in the Trader Vic’s Mai Tai, with deep dives on the original J. Wray & Nephew 17, the rums of the original Hawaiian Mai Tai, and the 1950s era Martinique rhum. We had a receptive audience that asked detailed follow-up questions, and the Rum Fest staff had a great visual setup for slides. Thanks to Sam for the photos.

Other sessions included Pietrek and Alexander Gabriele discussing some details of Navy Rum and the new Planteray Mister Fogg rum, then both signed copies of their new book on the subject. Gabriele also presented a session about the West Indies Rum Distillery in Barbados. Rum Champion Bryan Inman led a session about French rhum including reps and samples from Rhum Barbancourt. The last session was very loose but still enjoyable as Rum Lab’s Fede Hernandez led a session talking about Puerto Rican rums in tiki cocktails.

This was supposed to be my “dry” day at Rum Fest but it was anything but. It sounds like the team is interested in trying to make Rum Congress an ongoing component of the event. If this kind of event appeals to you, leave a comment with what kind of sessions you’d like to see in the future.

Happy 80th Birthday to the Mai Tai

Happy Mai Tai Day 2024! The Mai Tai was born in Oakland in 1944 and thanks to that city’s proclamation, we celebrate Mai Tai Day every August 30th. From humble beginnings and a few years in relative obscurity, the Mai Tai was Hawaii’s viral sensation in the 1950s. Starting in the 1960s, the Mai Tai evolved to incorporate pineapple juice.

You can learn more about the history of the Mai Tai with our long-form article. The essay covers the early years featuring long-aged Jamaica rums, the unusual rum blend in that original Hawaiian Mai Tai, a bit about the dark years, and the renaissance of cocktail that took place at the same time that premium rums became a market force.

The Mai Tai was created by Trader Vic Bergeron at the original Trader Vic’s, but we also highlight other notable figures in the Mai Tai’s significant contribution to cocktail culture including Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Martin Cate, and Michael Thanos. Plus the bartenders of the craft cocktail revolution who recognized that Vic’s original Mai Tai was a milestone cocktail that deserves to be on the menu at any quality tiki or craft cocktail bar.

So, Mai Tai Nation, today’s the day. Raise a glass as a salute to the Trader and anyone who celebrates the world’s best tropical cocktail. Cheers, friends, long live the Mai Tai.

Trader Vic’s Black Tai Event

The Trader Vic’s 90th Anniversary Celebration kicked off in elegant style with Friday’s Black “Tai” event in Emeryvile. This ticketed event was an all-inclusive experience including unlimited food and Trader Vic’s cocktails from various stations located throughout the venue. Plus DJs in some rooms and the Martini Kings playing in the main dining room. The staff did a great job with the setup and service throughout the night.

The event began with checking outside the restaurant and then a photo stop. We were led into the Cook room that was decorated with 1930s-40s artifacts from the original Hinky Dinks and then as it transformed into Trader Vic’s. We received a mini Mai Tai welcome cocktail and a Vic’s staff member walked us through the displays.

Next, we went to the Mai Tai Lounge which was set up to celebrate the 1950s-60s, with the Scorpion or a Mai Tai being the featured cocktails. The main dining room was set up for the 1970s, and the room next door highlighted Vic’s Middle Eastern locations with a boat full of the potent Tiki Puka Puka cocktails. The Trader’s Office featured spinoff restaurants Senor Pico and Mama Gruber with menus and artifacts, plus tequila tasting.

Wide collars with Martin Cate

Finally, the Captain’s Cabin was set up for present day with a display and representatives from KōHana Hawaiian rum, plus a delicious Hawaiian cocktail with that rum and Campari. The tour aspect was more difficult as went through the restaurant and ran into other guests, but overall the displays and vast number of Trader Vic’s artifacts was astounding. A large Guest Book was available for people to sign in and wish Trader Vic’s a happy 90th year.

The night became somewhat of a blur, and in retrospect Mrs. Mai Tai and I should have split some of those drinks. Nonetheless it was great to be able to socialize and speak with so many people. Mrs. Mai Tai dressed up in a tropical duster and I wore a vintage shirt from the Hawaiian Village with my suit. So many people really dressed up, a nod to the old days when people wore suits and dresses at fancy Polynesian restaurants like Trader Vic’s.

Vintage Foods at Trader Vic’s Emeryville

We returned to Trader Vic’s Emeryville to sample some of the vintage menu items that have returned for the summer. We previously tried the cocktails and this time we tried some of the food items, with wildly mixed results.

I absolutely loved the Bar Cheese with crackers, heavy on Blue Cheese but also with Cream Cheese, spices, and a hint of Horseradish. I love a funky cheese spread and it totally worked for me, though Mrs. Mai Tai thought it was too heavy on the Blue Cheese. I also really enjoyed the delightful Chicken Nibbles which are similar to Cheese Bings but feature minced Chicken and Shrimp, Cheddar, Sherry, and spices. These are fried to a crisp and not so heavy on the cheese.

Chicken Nibbles

When we visited a couple days earlier our server talked about the menu and how she didn’t care for the Bongo Bongo Soup with Oysters and Spinach. This is a pretty well-known vintage menu item, and Mrs Mai Tai usually likes soups. But neither of us cared for this soup that had a strong “fishy” taste.

It is great to see Trader Vic’s bringing these classic items back for a short time, even if they’re not all outstanding. Worth checking out while you can.